Again, the night in the hotel allowed an early morning start.
There are two car ferries to Jeju, a fast one, with seats that do not take motorcycles and a slow one (without seats) that does. The fast boat leaves an hour later than the slow boat. As I did not know whether pushbikes would be allowed on the fast one, I had to get out early.
Did any of that make sense?
As it turns out, pushbikes - and trikes were perfectly acceptable on the fast boat. Which left time for a coffee and bun.
Trikes? Yup, Jeju has a fantasy bike trail and so loads of pushbikes and trikes were waiting to board. I am wondering, however, whether there is a written rule as to whether theres an unwritten rule that you should always stand to the left hand side of a push bike as out of the 30+ cyclists, not one was waiting on the right hand side of his or her bike.
Still, the boat was comfortable and the crossing quick, and by 11am I was back on the rock.
Now the decision: cycle straight over the flank of Halla, or follow the coast road which would add 10km...
Surprisingly, I had no aches from the previous days ride - or even the previous week. And it was yet another glorious day. Additionally, there was a part of the coast that I had not yet cycled (having omitted it after a 100km ride around the other side of Jeju 6 months previously). Coast road it was then.
Just before Gwaje beach I was tempted by a burger bar... and coffee. The burger (in a bun) was the radial size of a pizza, I kid you not. Unfortunately, it was also waffer thin, so the taste was hidden by salad and bread. Oh well, can't win them all.
After that, it was just a question of heading inland and upland towards home..
Following the coast, as it happens, is actually quicker than flogging a laden bike up to the dual carriageway. I arrived in good time to quaff more beer than I had all journey.
And it tasted good.
Todays distance : 55km
Total Distance : 690km / 431 miles
Church spires are holy affairs
Baealdo Waterfront Park - Nagan-myeon folk village
click to enlarge
Unplanned, but as I rode past the entrance, I took the opportunity to go in. Weird landscaping off to one side, Herb gardens and competition gardens off to the other and sun beating down overhead... the conditions couldn't have been better.
Typical (European) Gardens
Amongst the grass rushes and trees, different 'typical' gardens had been produced, mostly of european style. I guess in Asia they don't often see gardens of other cultures, but as the only white person in evidence in the whole of the park, I guess that I am not really their target audience!
So the 6 images below represent gardens from different countries. 5 of them are european. Can you guess them...
click to enlarge
The rest of the park had various sculptures and trees... oh and a pink 2CV used as a flowerpot...
click to enlarge
Sometimes, when travelling, you are not prepared for the sights that you are about to see. Nagan falls into that category. There are many traditional villages in Korea, and they are usually empty shells of houses over a small area. This however, was a fully functional working village... town even. Most houses were stone and thatch although the temple padogas were of wood with clay roofs.
And the place was huge. Nestling in the foothils of the mountains, the thatched houses continued outside of the walls. Chimneys hung off most buildings at jaunty (but necessary) angles. Swings were lashed together affairs of rope and wooden poles... and there was even some traditional music played with traditional instruments.
click to enlarge
Its in all the guidebooks and on the interweb.
I find that after lots of exercise then a sauna and spa are just the job. Say after 60km of riding and a challenging hike.
The spa is, unfortunately, the most run down that I have seen or been to since being in Asia... half the spas are unfilled, paint
is peeling off the walls, and generally the place shows serious neglect.
All bathed and clean and after a reasonable meal (the only customer), It was time to find somewhere to pitch the tent...
Day 2 : Copy and paste not working: Click here for the blog
2 weeks of half term. Most of the staff seem to have flown off to the Philippines for sun, sand and hot weather. For various reasons, mostly financial, but also with a touch of can't-be-arsedness, I opted for a cycle tour of the mainland. It was a good challenge. The last time I spent 3 days on a bicycle, cycling around Jeju, I got back home knackered and with a gammy knee. And now here I was 6 months later, proposing to do something three times as long in terms of both time and distance.
At least it was going to be on a new bicycle built for such follies... and the source of one of the financial reasons I spoke about before!
click on any image and cycle ('scuse the pun) through the images using the left and right arrows
Oedoil Temple (Jeju)
Funnily translated signs on the trail. There are more English words here than I can speak Korean...
17.97km, 5.03 hours walking time (16min/km), height gain (and loss) approx 1400m